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Susan B. Kaiser discusses fashion and the city, including its geography of consumption and production, the relation between street style and the fashion industry, and how sartorial experimentation relates to social change. Susan B. Kaiser is Professor of Women and Gender Studies, Textiles and Clothing, and the Cultural Studies Graduate Group, at the University of California at Davis. Her research and teaching interface between the fields of fashion studies and feminist cultural studies. Recent and current research addresses shifting articulations of masculinities; issues of space/place (i.e., rural, urban, suburban); and possibilities for critical fashion studies through popular and political cultural discourses. She is the author of The Social Psychology of Clothing (1997) and Fashion and Cultural Studies (forthcoming), and over 90 articles and book chapters in the fields of textile/fashion studies, sociology, gender studies, cultural studies, popular culture, and consumer behavior. She is a Fellow and Past President of the International Textile and Apparel Association, and was the first Nixon Distinguished Professor/Lecturer at Cornell University. She is currently organizing a critical fashion studies working group in the University of California system.

Fashion studies and cultural studies -- Intersectional, transnational fashion subjects -- Fashioning the national subject -- Racial rearticulations and ethnicities -- Religion, fashion, and spirituality -- Class matters, fashion matters -- Gendering fashion, fashioning gender : beyond binaries -- Sexual subjectivities and style-fashion-dress -- Dressed embodiment -- Bodies in motion through time and space.

Fashion studies and cultural studies -- Intersectional, transnational fashion subjects -- Fashioning the national subject -- Racial rearticulations and ethnicities -- Religion, fashion, and spirituality -- Class matters, fashion matters -- Gendering fashion, fashioning gender : beyond binaries -- Sexual subjectivities and style-fashion-dress -- Dressed embodiment -- Bodies in motion through time and space.

Abstract

Abstract
This article examines how, in the latter aughts, men from the United States thought about their style, favourite clothing, masculine style(s) and the ways they imagined masculinity as articulated through everyday practices of fashioning the body. The body is a site of identity production, situated within broader cultural expectations, commitments and ideals. This study explores men's relationships to masculine ideals while dressing the body. We ask: how do men think about masculinity in relation to dress? How do they define 'masculine style'? In this article we examine individual responses about everyday appearance decisions, as well as larger trends. The study is a cross-section from a particular moment in time (May 2008) and uses demographically balanced open-ended survey responses to gauge men's relationships to masculine ideals while dressing the body. We use descriptive statistics to illustrate how men in the United States – at a particularly transitional moment in time – articulated their perspectives on favourite clothes and masculine style.

Abstract
In the late 1960s and early 1970s, Colombia Broadcasting System (CBS), a major US television network, cancelled all of its popular rural programming (e.g. The Beverly Hillbillies [Paul Henning, CBS, 1962–71], Green Acres [Jay Sommers, CBS, 1965–71]). Known as the 'rural purge', the cancellations made way for more urbanthemed shows and strove to cater to higher 'quality' (presumably urban) viewers. At the same time, US Vogue Magazine featured the peasant look: a decidedly rural style, but one co-opted from 'other' places and times. In this article, we analyse contradictory and ambivalent representations of 'rurality', which we describe as the construction and appropriation of non-urban life as a kind of cultural authenticity that is alternately disparaged and celebrated. Using Fred Davis's (1992) concept of identity ambivalences and Henri Lefebvre's (1991 [1974]) theories on the production of space, we explore cultural discourse in the late 1960s and early 1970s to interpret the complex rural-urban dynamics in fashion and television.

In this article, we argue that what is now known as the 'tween' cannot be understood apart from its inception in, and articulation with, the market exigencies of childhood - specifically girlhood - as they have emerged since the Second World War. Drawing upon trade discourses from the children's clothing industry since the 1940s, interviews with children and views expressed by children's market observers, we demonstrate how 'the tween' (or subteen/preteen) has been constructed and maintained as an ambiguous, age-delineated marketing and merchandising category. This category tends to produce and reproduce a 'female consuming subject' who has generally been presumed to be white, middle or upper middle class and heterosexual. Building upon historical materials, we focus much of our efforts on analyzing contemporary cultural commercial iterations of the tween as they have arisen since the early 1990s, a time when clothing makers and entrepreneurs of childhood redoubled their efforts to define a market semantic space for the Tween on the continuum of age-based goods and meanings.

Who we say we are and how we strive to look are but part of the negotiation of identity and appearance. While previous research has focused on the construction of who we are, in this paper we examine the negotiation of who we are not. We explore the vantage point and examine statements of identity not, questioning whether they allude to the mere antithesis of identity or to more complex identity ambivalences. Drawing from nearly 300 interviews, we question the primacy of master statuses and attempt to undo the binaries they support by illuminating salient cross‐cutting themes and by introducing descriptors to accompany the categories (age/temporality, gender/sexuality, ethnicity/intersecting cultural identities). In asking about least favorite clothes or about groups one avoids dressing like, we query not so much: What do clothes mean (or not mean)? Rather, we ask: How do we use clothes to negotiate tenuous, fragile, and elastic self/other, past/ present, and present/future relations?Like a barbed wire fence; Strung tight; Strung tense; Prickling with pretense; A borderline. Every income, every age, every fashion‐plated rage, every measure, every gauge, creates a borderline.

BACKGROUND: Recent work has argued that genus Klebsiella is best divided into 3 clades: K. pneumoniae (Kp), K. quasipneumoniae (Kq), and K. variicola (Kv). Kv has drawn attention from reports of higher mortality and virulence. We evaluated a previously defined group of military trauma patients with Klebsiella infections for the presence of Kv, described clinical and isolate characteristics, and compared Kv and Kp groups. METHODS: All initial and serial (≥7 days from prior isolate) infecting Kp isolates (identified by clinical laboratories without the ability to speciate Kq and Kv) were collected from the Trauma Infectious Disease Outcomes Study (6/09–12/14). Additionally, a previously defined group of colonizing isolates linked to the infecting isolates and a selection of random colonizers were included from groin swabs. DNA extraction and PCR targeting Kv per published methods was performed. Antimicrobial susceptibilities were determined using the BD Phoenix Automated Microbiology System and CLSI criteria. Multidrug resistance was defined as either resistance to ≥3 classes of aminoglycosides, β-lactams, carbapenems and/or fluoroquinolones or production of ESBL or KPC. RESULTS: Of 237 archived Kp isolates (from 122 patients), 10 (4%) were identified as Kv by PCR (from 8 [7%] patients). The Kv sources were 4 from blood (40%), 1 intra-abdominal (10%) and 5 from groin (50%). Six (3%) isolates were identified as Kq (4 from groin and 2 from respiratory specimens). The Kv and Kp patients were all males, with a median age of 25 (IQR 21–46) and 23 (IQR 21–28), length of hospital stay of 24 days (IQR: 5–106) and 53 days (IQR 36–74), and Injury Severity Score of 21 (IQR: 10–50) and 38 (IQR: 30–45), respectively. There were no deaths in the Kv group compared with 4 with Kp. Infecting Kv isolates were more likely to be from blood compared with Kp (80% vs. 17%, P = 0.04). No infecting Kv isolates were multidrug-resistant compared with 70% of infecting Kp isolates (P < 0.01). CONCLUSION: Kv represented 4% of the previously ...