Suchergebnisse

"The way a society deals with hair speaks volumes about its structures, its wealth, and its values." "This book contains articles written by the Paris hairstylist Emile Long between December 1910 and December 1920 for an English trade journal. Long's purpose in writing was to keep English coiffeurs informed about the goings-on in the world of fashion and hairdressing in France, and especially in Paris. In doing so he has provided us with a personal cultural history of the world's most fashionable city in a period that stretches from the end of the Belle Epoque, through the First World War, and into the opening year of the Roaring Twenties." "Students and scholars of history, fashion and French society will enjoy these rich and revealing accounts of what hair means to identity and culture."--Jacket

List of Figures -- Acknowledgments -- Introduction: Marks & Spencer, Democratisation and the History of Non-Elite Clothing -- 1: Marks & Spencer, Retailing and the Ready-to-Wear Clothing Industry -- 2: The Role of Technological Innovation -- 3: Marks & Spencer and Fashion: The Importance of Design -- 4: Selling Fashion -- 5: Marks & Spencer and the Internationalisation of Fashion -- Conclusion: Changing the Definitions of Fashion: Quality and Value for All -- Bibliography -- Index.

Fashion design is created in systems of collaborative relationships comparable to art worlds but fashion systems differ from art worlds in the relative emphasis on economic considerations and in the utility of what is produced. A brief history of the French fashion systems underlying haute couture and luxury ready-to-wear fashion reveals that both systems exhibited a tendency toward partial artification, as seen in the creation of designs with avant-garde connotations, although designers were primarily concerned with economic rewards. This tendency was reversed toward the end of the 20th century as both types of designers ceded control over their firms to luxury fashion conglomerates. The importance of fashion collectibles as a form of cultural heritage increased with the emergence of fashion museums but auction prices of fashion collectibles are significantly lower than in the fine arts. Higher auction prices for fashion collectibles occur in cases of celebrity validation or when the fashion collectible has some connection with fine art.

Review of: Copenhagen Chic: A Locational History of Copenhagen Fashion, Katrina Stark (2023)
Bristol: Intellect Books, 230 pp.,
ISBN 978-1-78938-783-4, p/bk, $29.95

This article seeks to re-explore and critique the current trend of androgyny in fashion and popular culture and the potential it may hold for gender-deviant dress and politics. In order to do this, it will discuss the way in which a popular version of male drag has monopolized a vision of gender subversion that has marginalized 'straight' cisgendered women's transgressive challenge to gender norms. Although not misogynistic in itself, RuPaul's Drag Race (Logo 2009–2017) brings to the surface the misogyny inherent in femininity – the performance underscores deeper asymmetrical power imbalances which are embedded in women's daily lives. Recent unisex fashion collections with their subsequent campaigns have sought to address this imbalance; however, this is not a problem with an easy fix. This article looks at the way in which particular performers such as Grace Jones and Harnaam Kaur have ad(dressed) their gender resistance without camouflaging and thus losing sight of a feminist history of gender inequality which still strongly resonates.

"In what ways do changing notions of social class correspond with key developments in the history of fashion? Focusing on examples ranging from 18th-century Britain to aspects of the global fashion industry in the early 21st century, Fashion and Class examines the meaning and evolution of the term 'class', from its Marxist origins to modern day interpretations. Did industrialisation, technological change and developments in fashion retailing bring about a degree of 'class levelling' or in fact intensify class antagonism? And to what extent does modern mass consumption and cheap labour revive some of the ethical issues faced in 19th-century British textile factories? Exploring a variety of case studies that examine the changing relationships between fashion and class in different historical contexts, from the French revolutionaries of the 1780-90s through to the changing relationships between couture, designer and high-street fashion in the mid-20th century and onwards, Fashion and Class is essential reading for those wishing to understand the ways in which the fashion system is closely connected with ideas of class."--

"Taking a global, multicultural, social, and economic perspective, this work explores the diverse and colorful history of human attire. From prehistoric times to the age of globalization, articles cover the evolution of clothing utility, style, production, and commerce, including accessories (shoes, hats, gloves, handbags, and jewelry) for men, women, and children. Dress for different climates, occupations, recreational activities, religious observances, rites of passages, and other human needs and purposes--from hunting and warfare to sports and space exploration--are examined in depth and detail. Fashion and design trends in diverse historical periods, regions and countries, and social and ethnic groups constitute a major area of coverage, as does the evolution of materials (from animal fur to textiles to synthetic fabrics) and production methods (from sewing and weaving to industrial manufacturing and computer-aided design). Dress as a reflection of social status, intellectual and artistic trends, economic conditions, cultural exchange, and modern media marketing are recurring themes. Influential figures and institutions in fashion design, industry and manufacturing, retail sales, production technologies, and related fields are also covered"--Publisher's description

"Fashion is both big business and big news. From models' eating disorders and sweated labour to the glamour of a new season's trends, statements and arguments about fashion and the fashion industry can be found in every newspaper, consumer website and fashion blog. Books which define, analyse and explain the nature, production and consumption of fashion in terms of one theory or another abound. But what are the theories which run through all of these analyses, and how can they help us to understand fashion and clothing? Fashion Theory: An Introduction explains some of the most influential and important theories on fashion: it brings to light the presuppositions involved in the things we think and say about fashion every day and shows how they depend on those theories. This clear, accessible introduction contextualises and critiques the ways in which a wide range of disciplines have used different theoretical approaches to explain - and sometimes to explain away - the astonishing variety, complexity and beauty of fashion. Through engaging examples and case studies, this book explores: - fashion and clothing in history - fashion and clothing as communication - fashion as identity - fashion, clothing and the body - production and consumption - fashion, globalization and colonialism - fashion, fetish and the erotic This book will be an invaluable resource for students of cultural studies, sociology, gender studies, fashion design, textiles, or the advertising, marketing and manufacturing of clothes"--